We have the single door Dometic refrigerator in our 1995 tow lite, and since the time we bought it, it has never worked on the 110v setting, nor the dc setting. It did work in the gas setting (38 to 45 degrees) at best. This past weekend however it took the better part of 8 hours to get to 40 in the main area. We have the small battery fan inside to circulate, and I installed a 120mm 72 cfm fan to cool the external coils. The second day of the trip, it got to 38 degrees, bt as the day progressed, it got to 51 degrees (with the selector set at max). The ice box area gets cool, but not to 0 degrees. best recorded temp in ice box is 35 degrees. I have checked the exterior vents for obstructions and all are clear. I can feel the heat being pushed out by the fan. One last note. The rig is dead level. I fear the ammonia system has reached it's end, and I have no desire to pay for a new unit as it would be more than half the cost of the trailer. Suggestions?
Holset,
How hot was it outside?
How hot was it outside?
Fireballsocal
Senior Member
You can replace the cooling unit on the back of the fridge. It's the amonia piping system and should run close to $600 for the part. If you are handy, you can do the install yourself from inside the trailer. It will involve disconnecting the fridge plumbing and electrical, pulling the fridge out for access to the rear, and swapping systems.
Amonia doesn't wear out however it will leak out or the system will plug up from lack of use.
Amonia doesn't wear out however it will leak out or the system will plug up from lack of use.
robobd
Senior Member
I always have mine plugged in for at least 3 days before I go anywhere and only open the door when nessessary,and have all food or drinks cold before i put them inside
jcurtis95
Senior Member
Holset,
I would recommend the first thing you need to do is to determine why it does not work on 120 V or 12VDC. While most will agree that the fridge works very well on gas, you must determine why it is not working on either AC or DC. I'm sure you have checked the circuit breaker or fuse [?] If the fuse is good, you need a volt-ohm meter to determine at what point you are getting AC or DC input toward the field [to the heating element located in the chimney]. There is a heating element located in an enclosure on the back side of the fridge [chimney]. Heat causes the flow of the ammonia which draws the heat from the interior and moves it to the exterior cooling coil in a continuous flow. If there is an accumulation of dirt, dust, bugs, etc., in the back of your refrigerator, use an air compressor and blow it out thoroughly.
If you have a 2 or 3-way fridge, there will be a heating element that works from DC or converted AC to DC . If you are getting voltage to the lead going to the heating element unit and is not cooling, you likely have a defective heating element.
While I have given you the basics, here is a URL that may explain the process better. Cooling Unit (How it works)
If there is no blown AC fuse designated for the refrigerator and, due to the age of your unit, I would be highly suspicious of a defective heating element. Refer to the documentation of your refrigerator or check here on the forum or search the internet for additional information for your particular model and testing methods to determine your problem. The link I have given above may give you the information needed to determine why it is not cooling on AC or DC or provide information to improve the cooling.
Also, make sure the fins on the inside of the fridge are clean. The heat is collected here and transferred to the coolant which transfers it to the exterior cooling coils to be dissipated to the atmosphere.
Good Luck.
Jerry & Carol Curtis
2406 T
I would recommend the first thing you need to do is to determine why it does not work on 120 V or 12VDC. While most will agree that the fridge works very well on gas, you must determine why it is not working on either AC or DC. I'm sure you have checked the circuit breaker or fuse [?] If the fuse is good, you need a volt-ohm meter to determine at what point you are getting AC or DC input toward the field [to the heating element located in the chimney]. There is a heating element located in an enclosure on the back side of the fridge [chimney]. Heat causes the flow of the ammonia which draws the heat from the interior and moves it to the exterior cooling coil in a continuous flow. If there is an accumulation of dirt, dust, bugs, etc., in the back of your refrigerator, use an air compressor and blow it out thoroughly.
If you have a 2 or 3-way fridge, there will be a heating element that works from DC or converted AC to DC . If you are getting voltage to the lead going to the heating element unit and is not cooling, you likely have a defective heating element.
While I have given you the basics, here is a URL that may explain the process better. Cooling Unit (How it works)
If there is no blown AC fuse designated for the refrigerator and, due to the age of your unit, I would be highly suspicious of a defective heating element. Refer to the documentation of your refrigerator or check here on the forum or search the internet for additional information for your particular model and testing methods to determine your problem. The link I have given above may give you the information needed to determine why it is not cooling on AC or DC or provide information to improve the cooling.
Also, make sure the fins on the inside of the fridge are clean. The heat is collected here and transferred to the coolant which transfers it to the exterior cooling coils to be dissipated to the atmosphere.
Good Luck.
Jerry & Carol Curtis
2406 T
Refrigerator not cooling
Thank you all for the suggestions. The ambianent temp over the weekend was 95 degrees to answer Campthewestcoast. I will take a look at the heating element as suggested by Jerry. I still have a concern as to the temp fluctuation during the day.
Thank you all for the suggestions. The ambianent temp over the weekend was 95 degrees to answer Campthewestcoast. I will take a look at the heating element as suggested by Jerry. I still have a concern as to the temp fluctuation during the day.
When it is really hot outside these refrigerators are working full time to keep up. Every time you open the door it is a setback. When we are camping and there are lots of cold beverages being consumed it is best to put them in an ice chest and leave the fridge for the food to minimize door opening. You may want to check and clean the chimney to make sure it is clear.
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jcurtis95
Senior Member
I agree with Rich. Here in the South and Southwest it will be unbearably hot for the next 6 weeks or so and frequent trips to the fridge will make the system work harder to keep the internal temperature even with the setting.
We have an inexpensive 12V DC Coleman Cooler that we take with us. We plug it into a 12V cigarette outlet in the back of the truck and when we arrive at our destination, it has a 12V transformer adapter that we plug into an outside AC outlet for keeping water, drinks, etc. Once cooled down, it will keep all your drinks cold. We have even had some ice form in bottled water.
Our older 1975 Hi Lo had a fridge that the inside temps fluctuated like that. When we got to where we were going, I would remove the vent cover and place a small fan to help dissipate the heat. Of course that was a no go if we were dry docking. If that side was in the hot sunlight during the day, I would rig up a shade to deflect the direct sunlight from the back of the fridge.
Hope this helps.
Jerry Curtis
2406 T
Fireballsocal
Senior Member
I've had my 2203 in temps up to 106 degrees. I had the air conditioning running the entire time but the fridge kept cool at 32 degrees without that fridge fan running.
JoeJones
Advanced Member
Refrigerator Temps
Why would you want the temp in the food section of the ref to be 32?that temp would freeze everything on the shelves! My ref temp is 42 which keeps the freezer at 28-30 degrees with the ref set on 5. Outside temps are 95-98 degrees. One question- do you run the small fan on the back of the ref while towing In the DC mode??
Skyking
Why would you want the temp in the food section of the ref to be 32?that temp would freeze everything on the shelves! My ref temp is 42 which keeps the freezer at 28-30 degrees with the ref set on 5. Outside temps are 95-98 degrees. One question- do you run the small fan on the back of the ref while towing In the DC mode??
Skyking
Last edited:
Fountain-FRF
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2013
- Messages
- 279
Refridgerator temps
Joe, 42 is not an ideal interior temp in your cooler section. Beverages will taste only cool, not cold and meat will spoil much quicker. Better that this temp should be about 33-35. I might also ad that freezer temps should be closer to 15. If one has a number of grandchildren going in and out then the best answer was keeping the drinks in the cooler instead.
Joe, 42 is not an ideal interior temp in your cooler section. Beverages will taste only cool, not cold and meat will spoil much quicker. Better that this temp should be about 33-35. I might also ad that freezer temps should be closer to 15. If one has a number of grandchildren going in and out then the best answer was keeping the drinks in the cooler instead.
retiredcamper47
Senior Member
When I had a problem with my fridge not working, here is what I was told. There is a 12v fused line going up beside the left side of the fridge (looking from the outside). The wiring harness was subbed out and they put the fuse on the wrong end (closer to fridge panel) of the wiring. Then it got covered up and buried in the spray foam. The easy cure was to run a fused line from the battery to the 12v terminal block on the backside of the fridge. After I did this, everything worked fine on the fridge. Hopefully this repair will work for you.
Bob
Bob
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