Remote battery posts

JO

Johnnie-HILO

Advanced Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2011
Messages
71
Location
Plymouth, Michigan
Has anyone installed remote battery posts? I store my trailer in the garage and there isn't enough clearance to raise the trailer in the garage to hook up anything to the battery. My converter has a single stage charger and I am concerned that I will cook the batteries if I leave it on too long. If I had remote battery posts I could put a Battery Tender on the battery in the winter. This may not be a problem next winter because my winter project this year is installing an inverter. I have got the inverter is installed in the trailer and the cables are run through holes in the floor. After I hook the battery cables up to the battery this spring (the trailer will then be up and outside), I was thinking that next winter I will be able to put a Battery Tender on the inverter terminals inside the trailer. But, remote terminals would be even better because then I could use jumper cables to raise the trailer in case of a dead battery. I am always tweaking something. I call it retirement and boredoom.

Thanks
 
The best way to do this is by attaching a a connector such as this to the battery posts: Cole Hersee-COLE HERSEE - 2-Pole Socket & Plug Boxed packaging - 11172-BX-11172-BX. They are usually available at auto parts stores. Let the connector dangle under the battery box cover (Ensure the wires aren't pinched). Connect the mating connector to the battery charger. Now all you have to do is plug the two together every time that you want to charge the batteries. Make sure that the exposed contact on the connector that is attached to the battery is connected to the negative post.

Battery Tenders and similar chargers often come with a set of connectors to do exactly what I described above.

Another alternative is to install a socket on your battery box and a connector on your battery charger similar to these:

Sea-Dog Polarized Cable Outlet

Perko 2-Prong Watertight Deck Connection

In any case, consider installing a fuse between the positive battery post and the wire leading to the connector/socket.

Raul
 
The connectors shown by Norton Rider look good for small amp draws but not heavy enough for use in a jumper circuit. I am not sure what size wires are needed for a battery tender/minder. I wanted to be able to jump my battery when the top was down so I mounted a jumper plug-in system from a junked/crashed single engine aircraft. The male plug I mounted to the outside of the battery box. I used an Alum doubler plate on the inside of the box for strength. I connected the +/- studs on the plug to the battery with battery cables. I mounted the plug using the bracket I also took off the aircraft. I also got the jumper cables that plug right into the plug. Works great. You could attach a battery minder/tender to the plug also. These parts can be gotten at an aircraft salvage yard or new at an aircraft parts company. New the parts and jumper cables run a little over $100. Used around half. I can help anyone find these parts if interested. I am an old Aircraft mechanic.
 
Last edited:
JIM L said:
The connectors shown by Norton Rider look good for small amp draws but not heavy enough for use in a jumper circuit. I am not sure what size wires are needed for a battery tender/minder. I wanted to be able to jump my battery when the top was down so I mounted a jumper plug-in system from a junked/crashed single engine aircraft.
Click to expand...

I missed the part about wanting to use this to connect jumper cables. Your are correct; the connectors I suggested are adequate for battery charging, but not for connecting jumpers.

In addition to aircraft connectors you can use electric forklift connectors ot tow truck jumper cable connectors. Ebay often has listings for these.

Raul
 
Thanks for the responses. You all have given me some great ideas. The Seadog
connector is a great idea for a charger. I have one of those on my boat and I never thought to use one on the trailer. I have purchased many items from Defender. They seem to have reasonable prices for a marine supplier. I go to RV stores to purchase stuff for my boat but I never think about the reverse.
 
Remote Battery Post

I took about 5 feet of 10 gauge electrical wire (multi-strand type), doubled it, stripped both ends of the doubled wire, and enclosed it in split flexible tubing (the type most often used for inclosing speaker wiring, computer wiring, etc. It can be found at Wal-Mart in the auto dept.) I attached one end to the Hi-Lo battery's positive post and the other end was snaked through an existing hole in the battery box and hangs under the box. Remember the stripped wire under the box is enclosed in split flex tubing. I have used my setup to connect jumper wires between my truck's battery and the Hi-Lo to raise the Hi-Lo when its battery was weak. Just connect the jumper wire's positive clamp to the wire under the battery box (open the split flex tubing to expose the Hi-Lo battery wires stripped end) and connect the negative clamp to the frame of the Hi-Lo.

Beach
 
The anal-retentive engineer in me would like to see a switch on the positive side. Batteries can pack quite a bit of energy and I don't know if I would rely on a battery post cover alone. An alternative would be one of these:
Power Connect Battery Connector Set - Black - Marine - Products - Batterytender.com, Power Connect Battery Connector Receptacle - Black - Marine - Products - Batterytender.com. They are rated at 100A, plenty for the hydraulic motor.

On a related topic, I've been thinking on a convenient way to charge my batteries with a multi-stage charger when the trailer is sitting at home. I need to maintain an AC connection to the converter because I keep a boat type heater going in the trailer at all times. This is almost a necessity in the damp Pacific Northwest. I also don't want to spend a lot of $$ on a more advance power converter.

I am thinking of buying a small marine charger or a Battery Tender brand charger (Waterproof Power Tender Plus 12V @ 5A - RV - Products - Batterytender.com, Products :: Battery Chargers :: ProSport 6 Gen 2) and installing it in the same compartment the converter and water pump are installed. The charger would be permanently wired to the batteries with a fused connection. I would also install a battery switch on the main positive cable coming from the battery (PERKO Inc. - Battery Switches - Medium Duty Main Battery Disconnect Switch with AFD, http://www.modmyrv.com/wp-content/gallery/mod-6-image-gallery/battery-switch-with-key-1.JPG).

When the trailer is parked at home I would use the switch to disconnect the batteries from the converter and would plug in both, the converter and the charger. When towing, camping, etc, the battery switch would be on and I would only plug in the converter at campsites.

Raul
 
Info on remote battery posts

Good info on remote battery posts and other things. Been thinking about adding something like remote battery posts. If the top is down the old body does not like the idea of crawling into and then working under the seat to change out a battery to get the top up.
Has anyone set anything up so that you can do this off 110 ac?? Of course hilo has done this in later years. But has anyone done this themselves in the aftermarket?

Later Tim
 
Hi Tim,
That happened to me several times, that is, having a dead battery for one or another reason. I used to hook my jumper cables directly to the battery while it was under the seat. Worked every time, and really wasn't physically difficult.

Jim
 
after market 110volt

Jim
I've heard of using cables like that also.
Still thinking has anyone done a "homemade" setup to raise and lower with a 110volt hook up?

Later Tim & Nancy and a dog that wants to go camping.
 
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