Sadly water damage. Calling all rebuilders

[hilltool]

Pulled sink window and there is water damage. Some de lamination around frame. Culprit, at least one, seems to be vent for stove fan directly above. Plan to let things dry out here for day or two while I consider my options. Note: as mentioned in a post from a year or so, the window was WAY over cut on the right side so trim was barely coveing. A clown show the day they put that in.

Suggestions WELCOME. Prefer a solution where I don't have to rip apart everything. I, am good at tearing things apart but not as good at rebuilding.

 

[hilltool]

More photos here. Above was vent.

 

[hilltool]

For some reason I can only upload one photo per post : here's one more of bottom sill.

 

[sam-HILO]

Water dammage

Had DH look at your pictures. You might remember that we had extensive water wall dammage in our 199025ft. Classic. You will have to let it dry out. Then if the wood is soft you are going to have to take the inside paneling off. If it comes off in big chunks you can use it for a pattern. We used a HF multi tool to seperate paneling from the foam. Obviously water soaked paneling comes off easier. Rip out paneling until you find dry area/undamaged. Sorry,no shortcuts. I think DH could spend his retirement years repairing HiLos. More fun to go camping! 4-26-2014 is our photobucket link for wall repairs. Keep us posted.

 

[Treeclimber]

Hill is it or will it be DRY soon? I had a boat repairman show my a "firm and final" repair for delamination, he also use this same method for Formica repair. Works if its dry . ADHESIVE caulk. He applied it to piece of small diameter "all screw", worked in sections until as much area was thinly coated as possible without opening too much more. His advantage was, he could work on a flat surface. The caulk also acts as a water proofer. I guess once applied, press as best as you can. Or go for the tear out. OUCH.
Tree

 

[Treeclimber]

Hill, back again. After enlarging the thumbnails pics, I think you could use the same method and use clamps with cauls to distribute the pressure. Work the top, both side then the bottom. Do section at a time and you won't need a dozen clamps. Deep throated type clamps.
Course there may be a better idea coming soon from someone else who's been there
Tree

 

[hilltool]

For short term I like that solution. Vent and window opening now covered in plastic with fans going. I THINK damage is relatively confined but. As Sam alludes to, can't know without going further. Still, just not in the mood this late in the Wisconsin season to tackle more . Smart move would be to remove upper cabinet but that includes lights and hood assembly. I am suspecting that water from ac traveling down roof to vent housing was the major issue. Hard to say- I just turned on air conditioning see if I can tell.

 

[Treeclimber]

Hopefully, it's confined to a small area. My A/C was just leaking to the inside on the floor. Baffled me- 60mph in heavy Fla down pour- no leak, gentle rain, LEAK! completely re-did sealant inside A/C unit fixed it (still hoping). I'll call my Formica man see if he has any ideas and I'll let you know.
Tree

 

[hilltool]

So it rained all night pretty steady and relatively hard. I had spread plastic over window and vent opening and duct taped it with a bit of fan blowing from inside. Bad news is the humidity isnt helping. Good news it gave me a good opportunity to see if water seems to be coming from anywhere else and at first glance it is not....knock on foam or whatever else is in there. QUESTION: Anybody tell me how to remove the trim piece that the window shades lines are screwed into so I can get a better look at the rest of the lower wall on the top to see how far the damage went? I know others have had to repair that.

Thanks

Rick

 

[hilltool]

Well if anyone is interested- you remove that trim piece by removing the screws holding down the blinds then CAREFULLY start prying up the trim as it is stapled down with clever little invisible staples. I did not go the whole way(back to shower) as I didn't want to break it (though a nice piece of marine grade birch ply would look great in there). That said- I may have dodged a bullet, here. I'm not seeing any water damage on that lower beam when I peak under so I'm guessing what I see is what I got for now. I will dry it as best I can for now, I guess, then maybe try tree climber's suggestion of the adhesive caulk for the patch of delamination below the hood vent and below the window. Any other suggestions, though, I am all ears. Next spring/summer- go back and consider doing more and replacing paneling.

Rick

 

[JIM L-HILO]

Put a small elec heater in the HiLo to help dry things out and if you have a dehumidifier put that in also. Should dry things out after it quits raining.

 

[sam-HILO]

wall dammage repairs

You asked for advice so here goes. Just cover the trailer up in a few days for real good winter storage. Wait until the spring when you can do a proper repair. J&R doesn't just apply caulk and clamp together. They rip the three layers of the wall apart. Then bondo is used on the back of the fiberglass wall on the inside. Bondo seals up any pinpoint holes you can't even see. Don't just put a bandaid on the problem. Fix it ounce and fix it right the first time.

 

[hilltool]

Thanks for the advice sam. However- I am going with a temporary fix and will consider a more involved one in the future. The amount of effort to get back to where I am now with it wont be much. Because the area in question is relatively small and not structural- and to do it right would involved separating the top and bottom- I've ordered a product that will penetrate the rotted wood and seal it. Then- I plan to utilize WEST systems epoxy to wrap a length of fiberglass tape along the edge and overlap the foam to maintain wall in integrity in that area. If the damage/rot extended down into the beam I would go after the whole thing but it does not---and this should get me through the winter. That said- I appreciate your advice and experience on this stuff.

Rick

 

[Fountain-FRF]

Let me side with Hilltool on this one. He's from Wisconsin. Camping season is relatively short. He throws a tarp over his project and then waits until the first of May to uncover the trailer. "Proper repairs" require how long? By that time next season is shot all to heck and the trailer (and camper) is another year older. There is a set number of good camping years in one's body. Don't let one slide away on you. That Hi-Lo isn't going to appreciate in value.

 

[hilltool]

Well- things went well for five years it seems. For the first time in awhile, though, I stored it outside for the winter. When I opened it up for this spring I see that the hood fan enclosure had pulled away from from the overhead cabinet and though I don't want to, I have to suspect water damage. Anybody remove the overhead fan assembly ever? Im just going to unplug it and disconnect the battery ground and start to pull the screws. I really don't want to remove the the whole cabinet but I may not have a choice. Ill post pictures. And, "hello" everybody. Its been awhile'

Rick

 

[hilltool]

here are photos. need advice on removing cabinet, I guess- or accessing wires.

 

[hilltool]

sorry for sideways shot. dont know how that happens. on left in last photo you can see where hood assembly pulled way from cabinet.

 

[Treeclimber]

hilltool, there is a false bottom in the cabinets. I use a stiff bladed putty knife about an inch and a half to pry those staples, then you can access those mounting screws on the bottom.
Tree

 

[hilltool]

Thanks Tree. I HATE those staples everywhere- but I didn't know there were more mounting screws there so I appreciate it.

Rick