Structural help/schematic needed

[Poops]

My 1989 model 2289L has some rot along the bottom of the upper left side, right where the lift cable is attached. This, I believe, is causing the cable to cut into the side raising and tearing the inner lip where the upper and lower sections slide together. The actual area where the cable is fastened appears to be strong, but the area where it wraps around and connects to the pulley on the lower section is rotten.
I am hoping to repair this damage myself, but am afraid to tear into the side wall until I have some idea what is in there structurally, particularly where the cable mount is located. I also need to know if doing this type of structural repair is best done with the top in the up or down position.
A picture of the wall structure would be very helpful as would any advice as to how to tackle this repair.
Thank you!

 

[JackandJanet]

Look at post #5 in this thread: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17/adjusting-cables-to-get-even-lift-and-full-height-1632/ to see how I repaired the damage you are describing. I didn't take pictures of the repair process, but I think I described what I did pretty well and I DID take pictures of the completed repair.

- Jack

 

[Poops]

The pictures help, but...

Thank you Jack for the speed response. The pictures of the metal plates for the cable to hold the cable from cutting into the structure at the bottom of the upper wall really help, and I think I can manufacture something like that for mine. I will also check my other there cable ends to see how they are mounted.

However, as I said, my left front corner has significant rot in that lower structural beam that runs above the fiberglass sheet along this lower edge. If there was a plate there originally, it is completely non existent and the cable is cutting into the structure. I am going to attempt to attach a photo to this thread so you can see it.



It seems to me that it's going to be easiest to tear into this section with the top in the raised position, but I know I'll have to disengage this cable to remove the sheeting to get to the rot.

Therefore, my questions remain - do I do this with the top raised, and, if I do, am I going to get into trouble by unscrewing the cable from its connection? I plan to use some jacking device to keep the corner from dropping while I repair it. I'd also like to know, if anyone has this experience, is it better to get to the structure inside the wall by peeling the sheeting off the outside, or the inside.

Thanks again for any and all help.

Fred

 

[Usagi5678]

Top must be raised in the up position to work on it.

Take a sharpie and mark the thread position of your cables before starting to work. You are correct that you will have to use bracing/farmer jacks. If someone could post the link to replacing the cables this would explain alot for you. When we had the seal replaced at J&R they put in metal reinforcement where the cable rubs. Probably an engineer goof. Many on this forum have done extensive repairs including DH. Possibly many are out camping.

 

[JackandJanet]

Poops, once you have the top braced, simply loosen the attached adjusting bolt (in front of the wheel on the street side) by taking off the two nuts that hold it against the frame of the trailer. Then, with it loose, you will have plenty of slack to unscrew the lag screw that holds the other end to the lower edge of the top half.

I can't help you with opening up the top siding to get at the damaged beam. However, once you remove the cable, you may find you can repair that section somewhat like I did. There are products that repair rotted wood and epoxy putty (like Bondo or JB Weld) are quite strong. You may also be able to bridge that gap with a steel angle. Don't be in a huge hurry to rip the siding off your trailer.

- Jack