What the..... (2008 22t)

Looking back at motobuffy's post the 2 small wires with the red tracer which come from the battery should be connected to the 2 center terminals on the switch and the 2 small red wires should be connected to the 2 bottom terminals on the switch. Only 1 top terminal is used and either one should go to the up and down lift switch.
not the way he has it listed. Check me on this RichR
 
PopRichie77 said:
Looking back at motobuffy's post the 2 small wires with the red tracer which come from the battery should be connected to the 2 center terminals on the switch and the 2 small red wires should be connected to the 2 bottom terminals on the switch. Only 1 top terminal is used and either one should go to the up and down lift switch.
not the way he has it listed. Check me on this RichR
Click to expand...

I think he meant to say the white wire to the other switch is on one of the top terminals. Red with tracer to center terminals are okay. Red/black wires to red on the bottom terminals are okay.
 
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Looking at the video manual
Larry shows to put the master switch in the lower position to run the lift. Both of our HiLo's worked that way. Evidently some of the switches were hooked up the opposite way. It is confusing in some situations.
 
I guess my next move is to run continuity across the switch terminals to see exactly how it works. My assumption about how it works is certainly questionable at this point. I would like to get the switch problem resolved before I try to locate the battery drain. It is possible they are related. As an FYI, I don't see anything in the unit that is not covered in the manual.
 
GRRRRRRR!!!!!! I completely disconnected all the leads to the master switch today and still had lights. As stated earlier, nothing in the camper that requires electricity beyond factory installed components. Didn't see anything funky in the battery box. Since everything works, I'll be making a trip to the marine store to find a waterproof switch to install on the exterior of the battery box. Oh, when I disconnected the battery, the lights went off. :eek:
 
Do all the lights work? How about the water pump, the furnace, etc., do they work, also? :confused:

Somebody had to be monkeying around somewhere. :confused:

Did you open up the panel where the 12 volt fuses are to see if anything looks strange? Those circuits are getting fed from somewhere other than the master switch.
 
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I studied the wiring diagrams and the only power supply to the 12 volt circuits comes from the master switch. The charger/converter only connects to 12 volts at the circuit breaker in the battery compartment, its only function is to charge the battery and supplement the battery to supply 12 volts to the trailer. So all 12 volt power should be coming from the battery compartment circuit breaker to the master switch and then on to the 12 volt fuses. Something is messed up somewhere or has been altered. Are the lights as bright as they should be if things were all normal?
 
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In the 2 master switch "off" positions, the 12v stuff works normally. When I get back to the camper next weekend, I'll pull the cover off the fuse box and look closely for any fridge crossover to the other circuits. I did order a waterproof cutoff switch today that I will mount through the battery box. The switch will operate from the exterior of the box, but all the wiring will be protected by being inside. I will stop the battery drain!!!!!
 
A thought just crossed my mind

and its powered by Vodka, so excuse me if I'm way out there.

Without rereading this entire posting I'm thinking that you're saying that the battery has a draw on it, regardless of master switch position.

WHAT IF the fridge on/off switch was defective? and it was always on? Provided the fridge worked you'd know simply by checking its temp, but ... maybe it's gone out.

Or maybe this vodka is killing me softly.
 
Let me summarize:
All 12v is live all the time, regardless of the main switch position. If I pull all the leads from the main switch, all 12v is still live. Switch is wired as per wiring diagram. Problem has to be elsewhere.
 
motobuffy said:
In the 2 master switch "off" positions, the 12v stuff works normally. When I get back to the camper next weekend, I'll pull the cover off the fuse box and look closely for any fridge crossover to the other circuits. I did order a waterproof cutoff switch today that I will mount through the battery box. The switch will operate from the exterior of the box, but all the wiring will be protected by being inside. I will stop the battery drain!!!!!
Click to expand...

The fridge should not have any connection to the fuse area. It goes directly to the terminal strip in the battery compartment.
 
Yes, and the refrigerator and refrigerator fan should run off 12 V when the master switch is in the center position. But, nothing else should operate.

- Jack
 
At this point I would say someone connected the fuse panel in side directly to the black wire from the battery that goes to the converter or they ran a new wire from the battery to the fuse panel.
 
Motobuffy, there had better be an end to this story. Most of us tune in every morning to catch the latest chapter, check out what will be the villain, and what you finally did to correct the situation. If I was any closer to Virginia I'd take a day and come visit just to see what the darned thing looked like behind that panel.
 
Glad to provide entertainment! The end of the story may take awhile to come to fruition. I keep the Hi-Lo at our retirement spot about 2.5 hours away from the principle residence. Go there most every weekend. This weekend will be a pass through at best, though. It's a full moon and I need crappie for the freezer.
 
I believe we'll give you that pass! Brenda and I were in a catfish restaurant in Black River Falls last summer and the phrase on all the server's t-shirts read "Catch and Release - -Into the Grease":D
 
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