2007 23C Rebuild

[sam-HILO]

Guid Block 3D printer.

Look out Jack. I think you just found out a new job to supliment your retirement.

 

[JackandJanet]

Look out Jack. I think you just found out a new job to supliment your retirement.

Ha! No way - but, I'm interested in the process and want to understand it better.

You evidentially create the files for an object you want to 3D print using a CAD program and then you save it in the file type that the printer you are using expects. These are what RahnA uploaded, and I don't know which of them my printer uses yet. Next, you input the correct file to the "slicer" app that the printer uses and it translates that file to the machine code the printer will use. Load the machine code into a USB stick, put that in the machine, and, Bob's your Uncle!

It's a lot like writing a program in a language like FORTRAN, C, Pascal, etc. That's the "source" code, which you input to a Compiler/Linker and it produces machine code that can be executed by the computer.

Anyway, I'm kinda excited to see it all working.

- Jack

 

[Red Green]

That’s great Jack, keep us posted on your 3-D adventures!! It sounds like a fun toy (ah, I mean an awesome machine!)

 

[97towlite]

Good Morning All!

I am also excited to hear how the files work out for the guide blocks. This also has me wondering if we could image and 3d print the 2" and 3" pulleys that our units use. Does anyone have any experience to know what type of material would be appropriate (carbon fiber?) and how strong a 3d printed pulley be?

If we could manage to image and print those, the bulk of the "Hi-Lo" specific parts would no longer be an concern.

Thanks!

 

[JackandJanet]

97towlite, I'm sure a pulley COULD be printed, but I'm concerned the bearing would need to be added and without it, I doubt the pulley would work particularly well. Treeclimber posted a thread several years ago about replacements he found on Amazon, this is the thread: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f32/pulley-info-6934/ and I've checked, they're still available. They are NOT metal, they are glass-filled nylon, and look pretty sturdy. Another member found metal ones from Tractor Supply.

For the cost, I suspect any 3D printed part would be more expensive and I don't think it would work as well. I bet there are numerous places that identically sized pulleys could be found.

- Jack

 

[r67northern]

Looking very good. Outstanding.

 

[JackandJanet]

Well, I got my 3D printed yesterday and printed a test object using the PLA filament that came with it. After a false start in loading the filament, the printing went without problems and the "thing" (a desktop "organizer") came out perfectly.

But, I've done a lot of research on filament types and now have some reservations about Carbon Fiber filaments. I've got a roll of PETG-CF on the way, which I ordered based on its supposed ease of use and strength. PETG is stronger than PLA and is almost as easy to use. But, I've learned, from several sources, which seem trustworthy, that CF makes the PETG more brittle, and not any stronger than ordinary PETG, plus, CF needs a bit more care in storage and it needs the hard steel print heads.

Thinking about the way the guide blocks work, and the stresses they are subject to, I don't see that they really need great strength. I suspect that most of them break when they are twisted, as when a cable breaks or if the trailer is towed with the top up. Otherwise, they simply slide up and down the guide tracks.

I'll try printing a guide block with the PETG-CF filament when it arrives, but I suspect a block printed with ordinary PETG would work as well, or better.

- Jack

 

[r67northern]

That's great that you've got the 3d print going. I've had some fun with those in general from time to time. They can also be invaluable for replacing a hard to find part!

 

[JackandJanet]

I've just added more to the Guide Block file thread I started. https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f22/3d-printer-files-for-guide-blocks-8469/#post57516. Everyone is encouraged to add to it if they have useful observations.

- Jack

 

[Red Green]

Well, I got my 3D printed yesterday and printed a test object using the PLA filament that came with it. After a false start in loading the filament, the printing went without problems and the "thing" (a desktop "organizer") came out perfectly.
- Jack

Sounds like you are getting along great with your 3-D printer Jack. I will be following along to see what other fun things you will be making.

You do know if you bought the extra-super-delux model, you could probably print yourself a new HiLo!

 

[Red Green]

Wall Frame stiffener/support

As usual, last week the temperatures were in the balmy range around here, in the upper 50’s and 60’s. And for some unknown reason, I didn’t take advantage of the nice temps. So today with the temp at 36 and feels like 25, well, this is the day I decide to do some outside cutting. It wasn’t too bad, the strong breeze carried the sawdust away, so that was a plus!

The DW had something else going on and so I had to put a little thought into just how I was going to handle and cut my 8’ and 10’ 4x4’s. I managed and it worked out well. (Just about anytime I can walk away from using power tools and still have all my appendages, it is a good day!)

The wall beam seems to fit well and I am ready to glue and screw it to the wall and frame.

I modified r67northern’s idea just a little bit, I did this on both side walls.
I notched the lower corner of the 4x4 with a 1” x 1” cut. This will butt up against two sides of the aluminum wall frame.
The upper corner (directly above the lower cut) I made a 1-1/4” wide cut and 3/4” deep. That leaves me with a nice thickness of the 4x4 above the frame rail and by going 1-1/4” wide I can tuck the 1/4” interior wall panel behind the 4x4 cutout and sandwich it between the frame rail and the 4x4. That will hold it stiffly in place.

The last thing I did was to rip two 3” wide boards with a 1” thickness. These are sandwiched at the seams of the 1/4” plywood to fasten both the interior and exterior walls. Once I glue and staple the edges where the plywood sheets butt up against each other, it gives me a fairly solid, smooth wall without the chance of the seam puckering.

 

[JackandJanet]

Rahn, I know what you mean about power tools. I had a kickback one time on my table saw, (because I wasn't using the riving knife). The piece hit my hand and it was really painful! I'm glad it wasn't worse, but it taught me a lesson. I ALWAYS use the knife now.

- Jack

 

[sam-HILO]

Rebuilding your HiLo.

Thanks for being so generous with your pictures and descriptions. I'm sure your HiLo will be better than factory.

 

[Red Green]

Rahn, I know what you mean about power tools. I had a kickback one time on my table saw, (because I wasn't using the riving knife). The piece hit my hand and it was really painful! I'm glad it wasn't worse, but it taught me a lesson. I ALWAYS use the knife now.

- Jack

I can relate to that!! Someone was watching out for you that time!

My latest happened 6 months ago. I was drilling a hole in a hitch/drawbar pin with the drill press. I even stood there a few seconds contemplating about clamping it down. Instead, I just stuck my fingers through the lift ring and started. The 1/8” pilot bit went through like soft butter, the 3/16” was also smooth, but the 1/4” grabbed half way through and it didn’t stall, it almost ripped my fingers off. (Like the feeling you get when you attempt to pull start a gas motor and the compression stops the pull rope and rips the cord out of your fingers.) My whole hand went numb. When I pulled my hand out from under my right armpit I was surprised to see the end digit of the ring finger just sort of drooping there.

At that point I wasn’t feeling to good. I went to the house and the DW finally convinced me that maybe a trip to Urgent Care would be a wise thing. I had no pain unless I moved that joint. After a few x-rays it was determined that I had ripped the ligament off the tip of my finger, and that the ligament took a chunk of the bone with it.

It has been about 6 months, finger still hurts when gripping smaller objects, but Drs’ are impressed that it is as straight as it is. (It still droops a little bit by mid-day and I splint it at night.) But they suspect that someday it may be back to a close normal. (The new normal I guess.)

So yeah, I knew better, the only thing I can surmise is that maybe that draw-pin had some kryptonite on/in it that reduced my strength.

 

[sam-HILO]

Finger injuries.

DH got his thum nail ripped off on a power brake at work. The plastic surgeon would have been able to reattach if he had saved it. Lost 10% of the feeling in his thumb.Another time he was cutting the last piece of window trim on the table saw. He had taken the guard off. I am a Nurse so no freaking out at the sight of blood. The plastic surgeon had to suture him up. Very lucky he didn't do any ligament or bone injury. A contractor we knew also was in ER at the same time for a hand injury. "The plastic surgeon said I like spring time as I get many hand injuries". One time i was using my sewing machine and managed to put the sewing machine needle through my finger. Painful and couldn't get the needle out fast enough. Dh has been very lucky at work. Only got off a ladder and forgot the drill . It came down on his head. His co worker was amazed he didn't swear. Then he got some small metal fragments in his eye. No permanent damage.

 

[Red Green]

Ouch!! We all seem to wear the scars of things sharp and things that can leave a mark!

 

[Red Green]

The 1” foam board has been fitted and glued. Once it has cured I will be ready to glue down the interior wall.

 

[Red Green]

Outer 1/4” plywood glued and cured.

Openings cut through exterior, foam, and interior plywood at the same time.

Windows dry fitted before Filon is glued down.

Lessens learned between the right (first) side compared to this side.

1. Much easier cutting the windows after the wall is together compared to cutting each opening in secession. i.e. Glue exterior paneling on and cut that, glue foam on and cut that, then glue interior plywood on and cut that. (It may have been smarter to cut the Filon at same time as the plywood, but I am running out of walls to experiment on.) Also, the way I did it the first time, I had pieces that I could use other places. Glueing it all and cutting, I now have a couple of window pieces that have 2 pieces of plywood and foam glued together that isn’t really usable anywhere. So I guess maybe it is a horse apiece.

2. Glue the exterior paneling to the frame and work your way inward. The first wall I installed the interior wall first and worked outward. The outer plywood didn’t lay as flat as it should have and if you look closely (and maybe not so closely) you can tell the outer Filon is not as smooth as it should be. I think I may have also over glued the first wall that when drying the glue honeycombed a little bit. (The reason I worked from interior out on the first wall, I was thinking I wanted the interior wall to look as perfect as original. )

The second wall went SO much better! Could also be the experience I gained on the first wall. Either way, I am pleased with it.

As my DW keeps reminding me, “It’s a camper, not a museum piece!”

 

[JackandJanet]

Beautiful cutting job for the windows and other things. Those openings look perfect. What tool did you use?

- Jack

 

[Red Green]

Thanks Jack! I used the original Filon ‘skin’ for my pattern (since this side came off in almost one piece. I laid it out and traced the openings onto the plywood.
I then placed the actual windows on the tracings to verify (in my mind) that they were the right size. Which by the way, the larger window was originally cut a little bigger than needed so I remarked my plywood.
I then drilled a 1/2” hole at the inside edge of the line and used a 24 tooth jigsaw blade to cut it all. It did a great job cutting even with the foam board.